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58F magazine
Tailor-made jewelry made to measure!
Don't you like wearing the same jewelry as everyone else and bored with standardization of brands? The site 58 Facettes puts at your service all the imagination and talent of our jewelers-designers for you design tailor-made jewelry.
In this first article that we are launching, we have already selected 3 jewelers with different creative processes and complementary universes while waiting to unveil many other jewelers.
Atelier Mallez: Stone expertise and the realization of a dream
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Isabelle Mallez, gemologist and founder of Atelier Mallez, is a great expert in stones, working for years in prestigious houses. For 2 years, she has wanted to put her talent at the service of individuals by creating a workshop in the heart of the Butte Montmartre in Paris, a district that inspires her deeply. For the choice of its stones, it turns to the largest suppliers of the Place Vendôme who provide all the guarantees thanks to international certificates (GIA, Gübelin, SSEF).
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“To start a made-to-measure jewel, I present to clients a very wide range of gems and they let themselves be carried by the different colors until they really fall in love with a stone. Then, I analyze the story of the person that we can tell through the creation of this jewel. Recently, I made a ring for the 35th wedding anniversary of a mother, ordered by her daughters. The 4 girls each brought a mood board that represented their personal vision of their mother and from there I created 4 different bouquets around a 2 carat center diamond ”
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Each piece of jewelry has its own story: a journey, an animal theme, a meeting. The common thread for Isabelle Mallez is to capture this memory and symbolize it through your personal jewelry.
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Capucine de Laage: The mastery of gouache and a detailed analysis of the personality
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Designing for large houses, Capucine de Laage perfectly masters the art of gouache and creation. But to make a tailor-made piece, she meets with you to find out your tastes, your style and even analyze your physiognomy. “It's like fashion, you have to analyze a person's physiognomy to know how to dress them. It's the same for a jewel. If the person has large hands, for example, you have to know how to highlight them. Or a sporty person will wish to have comfortable jewelry, while another woman will like to have ceremonial jewelry ”.
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Then, Capucine de Laage will offer you a second meeting with 8-10 sketch proposals, in order to refine your choice. Once the model has been decided, she creates the gouache with 3 different views and sometimes even has a wax made to validate the proportions.
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Almost half of the clients bring her family stones which she transforms into new creations. “My style is balanced asymmetry, a harmony that we find in nature, but also in Art Nouveau or Art Deco styles”. I also sometimes draw only the jewel because people have a family jeweler who will make the piece ”. The important thing for her is that her unique creations are made in the tradition of French Haute Joaillerie.
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Agathe Saint Girons: An artist bringing portrait jewelry to life
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Recognized artist of contemporary jewelry, Agathe Saint Girons approaches jewelry through a deep artistic expression that takes you on a unique experience.
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In the creative process of her “Bijoux Portraits”, she carries out a preliminary interview with the person. “For 3 hours, I question her on very personal subjects ranging from what she likes to touch as materials, to what she has in the fridge. Thanks to his answers, I try to perceive the personality until I seek the mirror of the soul ”. Then, Agathe Saint Girons takes several months to soak up and realize with her expert hands your jewel-portrait in her workshop.
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And one day, she presents it to you without having revealed the different stages. “With this creative process, I mainly have client collectors who know my universe and who agree to have jewelry without seeing the different stages of creation. They also have to accept sometimes having atypical materials (vegetable ivory, titanium, leather, glass…), because I also translate the complexity of the personality by using different materials ”.
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This abundant creativity thus gives life to a multitude of Portraits such as the silver and shagreen cuff bracelet, baptized La Reine or an Anouck ring in silver and pink gold, adorned with a sumptuous opal from Brazil. This carte blanche to Agathe Saint Girons is unique and you will be sure to have a more unique jewel!
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Article written by Kyra Brenzinger - Editor-in-chief.
Photos 1-3: Atelier Mallez
Photos 4-6: Capucine de Laage
Photos 7-10: Agathe Saint Girons