What is plique-à-jour enamel?

Everything you need to know about the plique-à-jour enamel technique

The essentials of this plique-à-jour enamel technique

"Plique-à-jour" enamel is a complex enamelling technique used in the decorative arts, especially during the Art Nouveau period, but today almost abandoned due to its cost and the scarcity of craftsmen. mastering this technique.

The term "plique-à-jour" comes from the French words "pliquer", which means "to fill", and "jour", which means "daylight" or "opening". This technique consists in creating patterns using transparent or translucent enamels applied to a metal framework, generally in gold, silver or other precious metals, therefore without a background (unlike the technique of cloisonné or champlevé). After cooking, the enamel is only fixed to the partitions, which allows this transparency, like a stained glass effect in a church.

Some characteristics of the plique-à-jour enamel technique

• Translucent effect: Plique-à-jour enamel is known for its translucent or tinted glass appearance. The enamel is applied in delicate cells or compartments and when viewed against the light, it lets light through, creating a beautiful, opalescent effect.
• Formation of the cells: The metal framework of the piece is meticulously worked to form cells or partitions which retain the enamel. These cells are often created by welding or by forming fine metal wires, which makes it possible to obtain complex patterns, or by cutting them out of a metal plate.
• Application of the enamel: The enamel, a glass powder, is carefully placed in the cells of the metal frame. The piece is then fired in a high temperature kiln, which allows the enamel to melt and fuse with the metal. Multiple coats of enamel can be applied and baked to achieve the desired color and depth.
• Difficult technique: Paste-a-jour enameling is considered one of the most difficult enameling techniques due to its complexity and the risk of enamel cracking or discoloration of the E-mail.

 History and masters of the art of the plique-à-jour technique

We certainly find the work of enamel in antiquity around the XNUMXnd century BC, but the plique-à-jour appears rather during the Byzantine Empire, around the XNUMXth century AD It is found later in Europe in the Middle -Age. Limoges was already an important center of enamel know-how during this period. We find traces of the description of this process in the XNUMXth century by Benvenuto Cellini. However, it is extremely rare to find pieces from these periods given their fragility.

In the 1864th century, Alexis Falize, like Jules Chaize, Eugène Fontenay, Froment-Meurice, Frédéric Boucheron, rediscovered these enamels and their artisans. Around XNUMX, enameller Charles Riffault produced plique-à-jour enamel pieces for Boucheron, presented at the Universal Exhibition in Paris.

René Lalique was one of those who used this material the most among the representatives of Art Nouveau, including Fabergé and Vever...

Today, Sandrine Tessier, French, best worker in France, works with Vever and Inès Hamaguchi, Swiss, with great goldsmiths such as Cartier or Hermès, are among the names that refer to the technique of enamel plique-à- day to produce exceptional pieces. 

You will find jewelry in enamel and some in plique-à-jour, especially in our selection of jewelry Art Nouveau.