- SIGNED JEWELERY -
Creative women in jewelry
DIRECTED BY KYRA BRENZINGER, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
À On the occasion of March 8, celebrating International Women's Rights Day, let's discover the jewelers who have shaken up this traditionally male profession.
The first women who dare to impose themselves
In the world of jewelry, women are rare, but Suzanne Belperron is a name that all auction houses dream of. His creations are the most sought after on the planet and break all records. However, this young woman of modest origins went to Paris in 1919 with her diploma from the Beaux-Arts de Besançon in her pocket to work alongside the widow of the jeweler René Boivin. Particularly innovative, it contributes to the reputation of the Boivin house. But wishing to create her own collections, she teamed up in 1932 with Bernard Herz, who gave her complete creative freedom. She designs jewelry with voluptuous and generous shapes using materials that were unconventional at the time, such as rock crystal, chalcedony or carnelian. She does not sign her jewelry, but her lines are particularly identifiable and she declares “my style is my signature”. Unfortunately, during the occupation, Bernard Hertz was sent to Auschwitz from which he never returned. In his will, he entrusted his business to Suzanne Belperron and her son. The designer continues until 1970 her creations for a cosmopolitan and famous clientele by creating tailor-made jewels such as Haute Couture.
The first women who dare to impose themselves (continued)
It is precisely the world of couture that will revolutionize that of jewelry with the arrival of Gabrielle Chanel who moved to rue Cambon in Paris in 1910. Her boyish outfits playing with British-style jacquard or equestrian quilting bring a real modernity to fashion. But it doesn't stop there, Coco Chanel also wants to revolutionize jewelry! In 1932, she produced a jewelry collection, entitled Bijoux de Diamants, presented in her private mansion. Inspired by couture, she creates necklaces in the shape of fringes or twirling ribbons, transformed into necklaces or bracelets. Diamond stars or comets hang on a shoulder or in the hair. His exhibition was a real success, but aroused the jealousy of the jewelers of Place Vendôme who demanded that the diamond partner of Chanel no longer entrust him with stones. The designer must dismantle her jewelry to return the diamonds. But it is without counting on his determination. She will create couture jewelry that will become iconic pieces. This year, the Chanel house will celebrate the 90th anniversary of this unique 1932 collection and will have some nice surprises in store for us in July during Haute Couture and Haute Joaillerie week…
Until then, find all
The creators of a style
In the maison Dior, beyond the creative genius of Christian Dior, a woman has revolutionized the codes of jewelry: Victory of Castellane. Starting her career with Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel by supervising the costume jewelry collections, she was recruited in 1998 by the house of Christian Dior to launch a first jewelry collection. Going against the trend of other houses, it launches jewels set with fine stones: beryls, tourmalines or opals. Like sweets, his generous cocktail rings set a real trend on Place Vendôme. In a rock'n roll spirit, she dares to use jewelery to write mischievous messages like her “Coquine” ring or her “Oui” collection. Also fond of the retro style, Victoire de Castellane does not hesitate to reinvent Marie-Antoinette ribbons or engraved coral roses. Its latest success, the Rose des vents, is currently embodied by the actress-model Cara Delevingne who, through her magnetism, brings a real modernity to this collection.
The creators of a style (continued)
In a completely different style, Caroline scheufele, co-director with her brother of the house Chopard, is also responsible for the women's collections in the jewelry and high jewelry division. A true pioneer, it was the first to join forces with the Cannes Film Festival to create its gold palm in 2013, which has since become a Fairmined palm in eco-responsible gold. On the red carpets, the biggest international stars wear Chopard sets adorned with the most beautiful stones in the world. She is particularly fond of animals and regularly collaborates with the WWF organization. Elephants, tigers, polar bears are interpreted in jewelry and question us about the preciousness of our land. The iconic collection remains unquestionably the Happy Diamonds collection. This system of mobile diamonds held by two glass walls was invented in 1976, a period accompanying the emancipation of women. Today, Julia Roberts has been chosen to embody this feminine freedom presenting both jewelery and watchmaking. The first round-shaped Happy Diamonds collection was completed by the Happy Hearts featuring hearts as a tribute to precious feelings.
The new generation
Many big houses are now calling on the creative talent of women from diverse backgrounds to rejuvenate the brand's style and infuse new ideas. This is the case of Claire Choisne, artistic director of Boucheron since 2011. A graduate of the Haute Ecole de Joaillerie, she has been able to bring a true vision of Haute Joaillerie. Constantly seeking new techniques, Claire Choisne approached NASA to capture air in an airgel to create a Drop of Sky pendant. Another recent example, it called on Saint-Gobain to create its Holographic High Jewelry collection. She sprays ceramic or rock crystal pieces with silver and titanium powder to create holographic and futuristic effects. On the jewelry side, iconic pieces remain the four ring presenting the know-how of the Boucheron house since 1893. The animal theme is also a great classic with the Serpent Bohème in mind and followed by the friendly hedgehog. The blue cabochon of the Jaïpur ring recalls the prestigious past of the Maharaja of Patiala who came to Boucheron in 1928 to bring a trunk with 7500 diamonds and 1500 emeralds. Another theme that Claire Choisne revisited in her latest collection...
The Next Generation (continued)
The brand Bvlgari was created in 1884 by a talented man Sotiro Bulgari who laid the creative foundations of the brand. It is notably with his 2 sons, Constantino and Giorgio, that Sotiro Bulgari decides to move upmarket by offering jewelry. In the 50s, the brand was in the firmament thanks to the cinema and to Elizabeth Taylor who, during the filming of Cleopatra, wore a wristwatch in the shape of a serpent with emerald eyes. The first Serpenti piece was born, the iconic piece par excellence! Today, the creation of jewelry and High Jewelry is entrusted to an Italian woman: Lucia Silvestri. While she started at the age of 18 in the gemology department, Bvlgari entrusted her with the creative direction in 2013. A great passion for stones, she knew how to stage the magic of stones through her latest High Jewelry collection Magnifica. The cabochon-shaped stones are part of the brand's DNA and are like musical notes, they bring joy and emotion.
Discover all our collections:
Chanel Rings Quilted Women
Chanel Camellia Women's Rings
Women's Dior Rose des Vents Bracelets
Dior Women's Rings
Bulgari Women's Jewelery
Boucheron Serpent Bohème Jewelry
Boucheron Quatre Jewelry
Chopard Happy Diamonds Rings
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