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- EXPERT PORTRAIT -

Maison Sapir: jewelry is a major art!

DIRECTED BY KYRA BRENZINGER, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

EManuel Levy, partner of 58 Facettes and founder of Maison Sapir, reveals his passion for jewelry, his favorites and the latest trends.

Can you tell us about your background?

Emmanuel Levy : I have a unique background as is often the case in this profession. At the same time as my studies in business school, I took a course in art history without having any particular ideas in mind. Then, I cut my teeth in the field within auction houses, notably alongside Master Enora Alix who passed on her passion for jewelry to me. At the same time, I passed my diamond diplomas at the HRD in Antwerp and I took courses in technical drawing of jewelery and gemmology at the Boulle school for 3 years.

Why did you create your Maison Sapir gallery in 2017?

Emmanuel Levy: Having a gallery allows you to show jewelry that reflects your personality, your taste. It is also, more prosaically, a place that serves as their setting and allows us to receive our customers. I work with my wife Eva and we are located opposite the Maison de la Poésie in the passage Molière in the 3rd arrondissement of Paris. This passage is a place that speaks to us, it is beautiful and touching without being overdone. The name of the Sapir gallery evokes sapphire, which is a stone that I particularly like. It is also the anagram of Paris, which does not displease me. 

What is your favorite period in antique jewelry?

Emmanuel Levy: I have a penchant for jewelry from the interwar period. Great designers such as Boivin, Belperron, Jean Després, Templier or even Dunand rub shoulders with the best of what Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels have done. There are also houses less known to the general public, but no less prestigious, such as Lacloche, Janesich, Ostertag, Dusausoy or Marzo, which have made a considerable contribution to jewelry, in terms of styles and jewelry techniques. The style, technique and audacity of certain jewelry during the 1930s really elevate jewelry to the level of a major art. 

What is the advantage for a client of going through an expert?

Emmanuel Levy : In order to sell or simply to have your jewelry appraised, going through an expert guarantees that things will be done in due form. We are also more aware of the tax and heritage dimensions that come into play during the sale or transmission of an important setting. As an expert, I can also carry out jewelry inventories or take all the steps to have the gems analyzed and provide certificates. This can make it possible to have real guarantees with the insurance companies if necessary. 

What are the criteria for evaluating a jewel?

Emmanuel Levy : Vast question! Above all, you have the intrinsic value of the jewel made up of the value of the precious metals and stones that compose it. Then, and it's much more complex to estimate, the craftsman's know-how, so the technique, the era, the signature and sometimes the provenance will bring real added value to it. And when everything is there, then we are dealing with an exceptional jewel!

Can you tell us about the latest trends in the vintage jewelry market?

Emmanuel Levy : Beyond the strong demand for Belle-Epoque and Art Deco jewelry that has existed for a while now, several new trends are currently emerging: Yellow gold is making a comeback. The important yellow gold bracelets and necklaces of the great chain makers from the 1950s to the 1980s are fashionable today. I am very happy with the rediscovery of knitwork, which may have been imbued with virtuosity both in the 60th century and during the vintage years. The market for these bracelets is mainly located across the Atlantic. Another trend: XNUMXth century jewelry, which was neglected for a long time because it was considered importable, is on the rise. Trembleuses, chatelaines and even tiaras are now the preserve of Asian collectors. Finally, we see the return of lucky charms and other charms. Whether it is the beautiful Art Nouveau medallions with flowery decoration or those from the XNUMXs from Augis, these jewels find their place in the cases of young women today. They are worn in an accumulation in a relaxed way on bracelets and of course as a pendant.

What is your latest crush?

Emmanuel Levy : I propose on the site 58 facettes a beautiful Chanel signet ring, probably made by the designer Lorenz Bäumer in a style reminiscent of the forms of Art Deco, adorned with a citrine and jade cabochons. I find that this ring is timeless and has a crazy charm!

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