The essentials of the Modern period

The 1960s and 1970s saw an explosion of creativity in the history of jewelry and a clear break with classic conventions. While previous decades favored elegant and sophisticated designs, the 60s and 70s saw the emergence of a bold aesthetic, influenced by the artistic and social movements of the time, notably Pop Art.
 

“Modern” jewelry with bold design and materials

Durant the modern period, jewelry becomes an object of artistic expression, where concept, texture and form often take precedence over the value of materials: reflecting a taste for originality, extravagance and the desire to create bold, unique, incomparable pieces. Jewelers experiment with the use of new materials such as enamel, plastic, steel, glass and even colored semi-precious stones. 

For what remains of the gold, it is hammered, textured, and sometimes deliberately oxidized to create raw and contemporary effects. The jewelry adopts geometric, asymmetrical, organic and sculptural shapes, breaking with the symmetry and finesse of traditional jewelry from other eras.

This change reflects a desire to democratize the art of jewelry: the latter becomes a testing ground where the boundary between art and craftsmanship is deliberately blurred.

Evolution of the perception of jewelry 

This period also marked a turning point in the perception of jewelry. The latter was no longer content to be a symbol of social status or wealth, but became a form of personal expression and a fashion accessory in its own right. Major jewelry houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, or Bulgari seized on these trends and launched more daring collections, often inspired by nature, wildlife et flore, distant cultures and modern artistic trends. The jewelry is  more voluminous, colorful and worn in a casual way. They reflect the liberated lifestyle of the time, leaving a lasting mark on the history of jewelry, laying the foundations for contemporary design.

So, just like theArt Nouveau had transformed jewelry at the beginning of the 60th century, the 70s and XNUMXs marked a revolution that continues to inspire and influence jewelry design today.

Artists invested in the creation of jewelry

Interest in modern-style jewelry is not limited to traditional jewelry houses. Many visual artists also seize jewelry as a new medium of artistic expression. Shortly before the 60s, this practice begins to spread, through creators such as Alexandre Calder, Georges Braque, or Jean Lurçat produce. 

For example, Alexander Calder, famous for his mobiles, creates minimalist jewelry made of thin strips of metal, evoking the lightness and simplicity of his sculptural work for reflect the spirit of emancipation and creativity that reigned at the time.

You might also like to read our articles on other key periods in jewelry
The essentials of the Art Deco period
The essentials of the Art Nouveau period