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58F magazine
Cocktail rings: to consume without moderation!
These oversized rings that made their appearance in the Roaring Twenties, during extravagant evenings, take on their full meaning on the eve of the end of the year celebrations. Even if they will be wiser, you might as well go out and play with your jewelry! Let's discover some designers who have been able to play with XXL dimensions to create dream jewelry.
Mathon Paris: say it with flowers
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For 3 generations, the Mathon Paris house has transported us to a magical world to discover lush nature. With the Florilège collection, the Parisian jeweler invites us to revisit flowers in jewelery form thanks in particular to cocktail rings romantically dressing the hand. "Our Cocktail rings or rings with a wow effect (which attract all eyes) are articulated around a majestic stone (beryl, spinel or even tourmaline) or are the result of a composition of stones which draws the whole of a bouquet ”, explains Aude Mathon, president of Mathon Paris.
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The Glycine ring from the Florilège collection showcases the delicacy of shades ranging from powdery pink to purple, interpreted by different shades of sapphires on an old rosecut cut and set in pink gold. The Fougère ring spreads its foliage artistically around the finger, adorned with pear-shaped sapphires. The set is illuminated with diamonds like water droplets descending on the rod constituting the body of the ring. As in nature, several color variants exist in pink gold or white gold and displaying multicolored sapphires.
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"My grandfather, Roger Mathon, artist-painter initiated this rural universe and his heritage continues to nourish the creation of the House, it is our DNA", confirms Aude Mathon. This jewelry house, still entirely family-owned and labeled Joaillerie de France, masters all High Jewelry techniques such as chasing, lacquering, but also straw marquetry. Like the film Microcosmos, Mathon Paris jewelry is to be discovered in great detail.
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Vangelder Création: playful and transformable jewelry
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Located on Place Saint-Sulpice in Paris, the Vangelder house demonstrates inventiveness in its various creations in the image of this artistic district. "Since 1987, I have been creating jewelry and I like to renew myself by surprising my customers while also having fun", explains David Vangelder. Her Moon ring, for example, adorned with sumptuous white or pink pearls, can be hung on a chain and transformed into a pendant. “For cocktail rings, it is important to bring dreams and above all try them on by moving your hand, because you have to see the volumes and colors of the stones from every angle! ".
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The Cicia ring, for example, bearing the name of an island in Fiji, symbolizes an oyster revealing a stone (instead of a long-awaited pearl). David Vangelder chooses exceptional stones such as the 5,90-carat tanzanite with its electric blue-violet or the 6,99-carat garnet with a shimmering red robe like velvet. The shape of the curved ring reflects the light like a mirror intensifying the color of the stone. The whole is enhanced with diamonds to create a festive effect.
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In homage to the Roaring Twenties, the emblematic period of cocktail rings, let's discover the Sumba ring which literally seems to dance on your finger. A swirl of diamonds traces a leg movement or evokes a dress twirling to the rhythm of music. Adorned with a 13mm South Sea cultured pearl, the Sumba ring comes into its own. Because in life, you have to know how to have fun and make it sparkle!
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Wilfrid Deydier: at the heart of history and magic
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Architect in the city, Wilfrid Deydier also has other passions for jewelry and history. With his overflowing imagination, he was able to create a universe apart between fairyland and myths.
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Through emblematic characters from history, he unveils his latest La Vallière cocktail ring. “Louise de la Vallière was Louis XIV's first favorite, whom he sincerely loved without any pride, whim or vanity. In the days of its splendor, it marked fashion with its ribbons, worn like a tie with a large bow, ”explains Wilfrid Deydier. Its La Vallière ring, with generous volumes, features this knot of multicolored ribbons, adorned with pink and blue sapphires and enhanced with diamonds. Many color combinations exist on white, yellow or rose gold and varieties of gems.
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For his Winter ring, the designer-jeweler transports us with poetry to Japan, evoking the buds of a cherry tree under its blanket of snow. The Sun Glacier version features a citrine to evoke the opalescent sunlight, studded with yellow diamonds. While the Night version presents a trillon tanzanite with an electric blue-violet color and trapped in a star of frost. Concerned about the smallest detail, Wilfrid Deydier created small stars engraved on the open ring body which symbolizes the branches of the cherry tree. Magical encounter with a snow queen and today's princesses!
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Article written by Kyra Brenzinger - Editor-in-chief.
Cover photo: Winter ring - Wilfrid Deydier
Photo 1: Fougère pink gold ring - Mathon Paris
Photo 2: Glycine pink gold ring - Mathon Paris
Photo 3: Fougère white gold ring - Mathon Paris
Photo 4: Moon Ring - Vangelder Creation
Photo 5: Cicia ring - Vangelder Creation
Photo 6: Sumba ring - Vangelder Creation
Photo 7: Universe Wilfrid Deydier
Photo 8: La Vallière ring - Wilfrid Deydier
Photo 9: Winter ring - Wilfrid Deydier