
How do I know if my pearl necklace is valuable?
Are you wondering if your pearl necklace is valuable or even if it is real pearls? Whether it is a family jewel or even a recent acquisition, it is not always easy to determine the value of your pearls. This article is here to help you!
Learn the difference between cultured pearls and fine pearls, real pearls and imitation pearls, the different colors of pearls, their formation, the role of orient and luster and much more broadly the history of the pearl, from its birth to nowadays!

Cultured pearls and fine pearls
What differentiates a fine pearl from a cultured pearl?
A fundamental difference that drastically influences the price of a pearl is its nature: fine or cultured.
To distinguish fine pearls and cultured pearls, both natural, it is not all of their external qualities that must be looked at but rather the composition of their interior and whether or not man has intervened in their production.
To learn more about the difference between cultured pearls and fine pearls, click here to read our article on this subject.
Fine pearls, increasingly rare pearls
The value of fine pearls weakened with the development of cultured pearls in Japan in the 1930s. To produce a pearl artificially, a mother-of-pearl core is introduced into the oyster. This organized competition is not without consequences since pearl fishing has gradually declined. Furthermore, due to pollution, today only one fine pearl is found in 7 to 000 oysters. Fine pearls now only represent 8% of the public sales market, which makes them exceptional pieces often sold at substantial prices.
Among fine pearls, those that are most sought after are historic pearls. The pearl given by Napoleon I to his second wife, Empress Marie-Louise, is estimated to have a value of 700 to 000 million Swiss francs (1,1 million to 455,5 million euros), which is around 650 million francs cheaper than when it was put on sale in 1,2.
For diameters equivalent to 5 to 10 millimeters, it is possible to find fine pearl necklaces at prices between 10 and 000 euros. The difference between cultured pearls and fine pearls is especially felt on exceptional pieces. For example, a double-strand necklace of fine pearls sold for 20 million Swiss francs in November 000 would be worth only $3,5 if it were cultured pearls.
Here are some examples of auction results demonstrating the growing interest in these jewels:
Details of these sales:
In 2010, a 46 cm long necklace, made of fine pearls, arranged in a fall and measuring from 3.2 mm to 6.7 mm, was sold. 3 500 euros.
In 2015, a necklace measuring 46,5 cm in length, composed of 102 fine falling seawater pearls with a small shuttle clasp in 18K white gold set with a guide and two roses, with falling pearls with a diameter of 2,9 to 6,7 mm, sold 4 600 euros.
In 2020, a necklace of 82 fine pearls with diameters of 3,7-7,7 mm was sold 6 500 euros. Finally, in 2024, a necklace of fine falling pearls with a diameter of 3,0-7,4 mm with an 18K gold clasp was sold 7 872 euros.
How are pearl prices determined?
Once the distinction between fine pearl and cultured pearl has been made, the other assessment criteria are as follows:
The value of a pearl is determined by several criteria. First of all, the size, the perfection of roundness and absence of pins are essential. Concerning the size, it is determined by the place on the body of the mollusk where the pearls are formed. The most regular specimens are those found in the visceral body of the animal while baroque pearls most often develop near the abductor muscle.
Then, we must observe theuniformity of texture and luster, that is to say the shiny appearance that pearls naturally possess. The east, in other words the brightness produced by the reflections of the diffraction of light on the aragonite crystals. This Pearl brilliance, although subjective, also plays a crucial role in its valuation. It is not a single shade but rather a set of reflections from which a dominant one stands out. The main dominants of the orient are: the orient rosé, the orient creamy white, the orient ivory, the orient champagne and the orient silvery white.
For cultured pearls, the shape of the nucleus is decisive. The pearls that form inside the body of the mollusk are called free pearls. Those which develop against the shell are called half pearls, blisters, mabés or mother-of-pearl pearls. Half-pearls are considered intermediate products between mother-of-pearl and fine pearls.
Furthermore, more the layer of mother-of-pearl the thicker the pearl, the more it will have a beautiful shine. However, if the core shines through a thin layer of nacre or if you notice the presence of a dark spot, then you are dealing with a poor quality pearl. Although the pearl is genuine, if it is of poor quality, it will deteriorate very quickly.
The classification of cultured pearls
In order to define the quality of cultured pearls, specialists have developed a code group. AAA code beads are of high quality. Then, pearls qualified under the AA and A code are pearls of average quality, AA+ pearls being of better quality than AA pearls. Finally, Tahitian pearls are classified AD, D being reserved for low quality pearls.
The formation of cultured pearls
All cultured pearls, in other words fine pearls, come from a natural environment: “water”. In this environment live a variety of molluscs: bivalves and Gastropods. What differentiates these two species? Gastropods can produce calcareous concretions although the pearls they produce remain extremely rare. Bivalves are mollusks which have a mother-of-pearl shell and can produce this soft and luminous manner which is necessary for their growth. Concerning the creation of the pearl, it takes place when an irritant penetrates the shell of the mollusk. Indeed, once the irritant is in its shell, the Bivalve covers it with successive layers of nacre, following the instructions of its DNA, until the pearl is formed. This process is a natural response of the body to protect itself from what is foreign to it.
Colors of cultured pearls
Another element that is important is the color of the pearl. Indeed, gray pearls are particularly prized. Thus, in 2011, Bergé & Associés sold a necklace of 49 fine gray pearls for 1,7 million Swiss francs. This price is explained in particular by the diameter of the pearls which was greater than 15 millimeters.
The color of the pearls depends on several factors: the color of the lips, the nature of the oyster and the graft, the food, the temperature of the water and also the salinity thereof.
To facilitate their identification, the pearls are grouped into large color categories. Here are the main ones:
- White pearls
- Black pearls
- Silver pearls
- The golden pearls
- Lavender pearls
- Peach pearls
- The blue pearls
Furthermore, at the beginning of the 20th century, white pearls were considered the reference pearls in terms of cultured pearls, celebrated for their luster and purity. Black pearls, on the other hand, met resistance when they first hit the market. Indeed, Polynesian pearls were viewed with skepticism and judged as less authentic for entering the field of fine jewelry.
However, artists and Parisian fashion quickly seized these unique pearls. Their distinctive character and large size have allowed them to earn a place among the most fashionable and expensive pearls on the market.
Among white pearls, there are three types: Akoya pearls, Freshwater pearls and Australian pearls.
Akoya pearls are generally white in color although in reality the pearls are never completely white. Indeed, just like mother-of-pearl, they have iridescent reflections which vary depending on the angle and the light. We call this phenomenon of multiple reflections: “the Orient”. It is not a single shade but rather a set of reflections from which a dominant one stands out. The main dominants of the Orient are: Orient rosé, Orient cream white, Orient ivory, Orient champagne and Orient silver white.
Putting together a necklace of around fifty pearls is therefore not an easy task since you have to find pearls that go perfectly together.
Freshwater pearls are entirely composed of mother-of-pearl produced by the mollusk. These pearls are the result of a graft but they are not nucleonated, that is to say they do not have an artificial nucleus in their center. The silky appearance of these pearls comes from the homogeneous density of the mother-of-pearl.
Australian pearls, are saltwater, nucleated pearls. They are recognized for their thick and dense mother-of-pearl and the presence of small metallic shards.
Where are cultured pearls produced?
The Akoya pearls, white or cream, are produced in Japan.
The Australian pearls are native to the South Seas. Their color varies between silver and gold..
La Tahitian pearl is also called “black pearl” although in reality its true color is a shade of green and gray.
Finally, freshwater pearls come from the southern seas and are easily recognizable thanks to their pink color.
Fake pearls or imitation pearls
The pearls of Majorca
The pearls of Majorca, also known as Majorica pearls, are produced by the Majorica SA company, founded in 1890 on the island of Majorca, Spain. These pearls are renowned for their quality and their resemblance to natural pearls. Currently, it is estimated that Majorica SA has produced more than 2,5 million faux pearls.
Their manufacture involves a complex process where a core of glass or plastic is covered with several layers of varnish or lacquer, obtained from synthetic and natural substances. This process manages to reproduce the shine as well as the texture of real pearls. This is why Mallorcan pearls are extremely famous in the jewelry world.
How to tell a fake pearl from a real one?
Whether glass, ceramic or plastic, faux pearls are everywhere on the market. Here are some tips for recognizing real pearls:
- Lightly rub the pearl on the sharp part of your teeth: if the jewel slides perfectly, it is very likely that the pearl is fake. The real pearl will have rough edges as well as a slight crunch.
- Rub the pearls together between your fingers. If you notice slight friction, then these are real pearls.
- Pay attention to imperfections: real pearls always have small imperfections in their shape.
A little history of the pearl
It was during ancient times that pearls were first discovered. Their use by humans goes back a long way since they were found in a tomb dating from 5500 BC in the United Arab Emirates.
Furthermore, the first writings to talk about pearls come from China and date back to 2300 BC. In these texts, pearls are depicted as a gift from nature. Other civilizations, such as India and Egypt, considered pearls to be magnificent and sacred gems.
On the Greek side, pearls were already known in Greece. In reference to the goddess of love, they called them “tears of Aphrodite”, the white pearls being women's tears and the black pearls, men's tears. In Ancient Rome, pearls were a symbol of wealth and power. Not everyone had the right to wear them, they were reserved for certain ranks of society. The tradition was that the noblest families would offer one or two pearls per year to their daughter so that when she reached the age of majority she would obtain a sumptuous river of pearls.
In the Middle East, the pearl also has its importance. Indeed, for the Arabs and the Koran, the pearl is one of the most precious treasures provided by paradise. In the Persian Gulf, pearls were relatively abundant in oysters, so the Arabs, Persians and Assyrians discovered them very early. The natural beauty of this gem and the iridescent colors of its mother-of-pearl immediately seduced them. It was Alexander the Great who, during his conquest of the East from 334 to 325 BC, popularized the pearl as a jewel in the West. Finally, pearl farming was discovered in the XNUMXth century by the Japanese, marking the birth of the pearl. The main architect of this discovery is Kokichi Mikimoto.
Little anecdotes about the pearl
Pearls, symbols of timeless natural beauty, have always been associated with divine creation in the cultures of the pearling regions. Myths have systematically considered them as divine gifts. This is why pearls were seen as endowed with supernatural powers, inherited from the divinities.
Thus, men began searching for them not only for their beauty but above all for the powers that they thought these gems possessed. Beads were cherished and revered and worn as jewelry or amulets as symbols of power. Moreover, pearls were not only used for adornment, they were also used for medicinal and superstitious purposes.
The pearl in art
Sandro Botticelli, The Birth of Venus, circa 1484-85, Tempera, Florence, Uffizi Gallery
In this painting by Botticelli, the pearl refers to the chastity of young girls because the pearl is a symbol of purity due to its natural perfection. Indeed, the pearl is the only gem that can be used without human intervention. Other precious stones need human intervention to reveal their beauty. This painting also echoes the legend in the West which says that the birth of the pearl is marked by the birth of Venus.
Johannes Vermeer, The Girl with a Pearl Earring, Circa 1665, oil on canvas, The Hague, Mauritshuis
In this masterpiece of Dutch painting, also called “the Mona Lisa of the North”, the pearl is represented here for its symbolism of purity, and also because by catching the light, it serves as a focal point in the painting. anchor which guides the viewer's gaze towards the face of the young girl.
Cleopatra and her pearl
A story, told by Pliny the Elder, features Cleopatra. Anxious to seduce the Roman general Marc-Antoine, she invites him to feast on her ship with purple sails. Cleopatra does not hesitate to deploy all her fortune in order to impress the general. The latter then challenges the queen to spend ten million sesterces in a single banquet. The bet is taken and a short time later, Marc-Antoine is once again invited to the queen's ship. However, although he is received lavishly, the luxury is not excessive and Marc-Antoine then thinks he has won his bet. However, we must not forget the ingenuity of Cleopatra, who at the end of the banquet, dipped one of her earrings adorned with a fine pearl into a cup of vinegar. The pearl dissolves and Cleopatra drinks the brew, winning not only her bet but also the heart of Mark Antony.
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