- signed jewelry -

Cartier, the jeweler of kings

realized by Kyra Brenzinger

Che prestigious title was given by King Edward VII on the occasion of his coronation in 1902. He ordered 27 tiaras from the Cartier house in London and proclaimed Cartier as "the jeweler of kings and the king of jewelers". A title and a sumptuous order that will bring luck to the French jeweler ...

From European courts to Asia: from tiaras to Tutti-frutti

Founded in 1847 by Louis François Cartier, the house has quickly developed thanks to a family line of true entrepreneurs. The first customers were part of the court of Napoleon III, but also the great Tsar Nicolas II or Alfonso III of Spain ordered prestigious pieces and tiaras for their wives. Marie of Romania ordered a necklace adorned with a 478-carat sapphire and several tiaras. In 1911, Jacques Cartier, grandson of the founder, set off on an adventure in India to meet the Maharajahs and their sumptuous palaces. The Maharajah of Nawanagar entrusted him with his greatest project of making a ceremonial necklace for his access to the throne, adorned with a 136,25 carat diamond and multiple colored diamonds (pink, blue, green). The success was such that many other Maharajas of Patiala and Kapurthula entrusted their stones and in particular the stones engraved in emerald, sapphire and ruby ​​in the form of leaves and fruits. During an exhibition in 1913 in New York, Cartier put forward this clever mixture of colored precious stones mixed with diamonds and Indian art was born, renamed in the 70s, as the “Tutti Frutti” style.

Art Deco: the master of the purity

  • This artistic movement was born in Paris in 1925, during the International Exhibition of Decorative Arts. Another grandson of the founder, Louis Cartier is part of the Pavilion of Elegance as vice-president of the Parure group. The Cartier house becomes a benchmark in the Art Deco style, playing on the purity of the contrast between diamonds and onyx. Certain materials add an exotic touch, such as coral or green jade. It was also at this time that Cartier (with watchmaker Maurice Couet) developed its incredible mysterious clocks revealing hands that seem to float in a rock crystal dial with a mechanism hidden in the base. Another great invention from the beginning of the last century: the Tank watch, inspired by tanks. In the 40s, the Cartier house also gave birth to many jewels in the shape of tank caterpillars as links to bracelets or necklaces, so much sought after today.

From fine pearls to cultured pearls

The founder's third grandson, Pierre Cartier developed the brand in the United States and achieved a masterpiece in New York. In 1916, he suggested to Morton Plant, an American businessman and owner of a mansion on 5th Avenue, to exchange a necklace of fine pearls for this building. Morton Plant, who can not resist the desires of his wife, Maisie Plant, sells his mansion for this magnificent necklace of 128 fine pearls estimated at $ 1 million. At that time, Japanese cultured pearls, developed by Kokichi Mikomoto, gradually arrived on the western market. These cultured pearls are gradually replacing fine pearls and are developing in different territories such as Tahiti, Australia or the Philippines offering very varied colors (black, white, pink, green, white, gold) marrying wonderfully with gemstones. exception.

The Panther : for leading women

  • Even if the silhouette of the panther has already appeared in 1914 on a wristwatch, it is above all the new creative director, Jeanne Toussaint, appointed in 1933 who will create the house's favorite animal. In 1949, she designed a panther brooch for the Duchess of Windsor on top of a star sapphire cabochon weighing more than 152 carats. A real fashion phenomenon is launched and the most influential women on the planet like Daisy Fellowes, the wife of the Aga Khan or Maria Felix offer themselves new versions. The famous panther today adorns many versions of rings, bracelets, necklaces. Reinvented in different styles, figurative or stylized, the Cartier panther is simply a must!

Mythical diamonds with engagement rings 

The first diamonds from the famous Indian mine of Golconda adorned the necks of the Maharajas. But the star Elizabeth Taylor has created a true legendary couple with Richard Burton who offers her many exceptional jewels such as this pear-cut diamond of 69,42 carats, mounted on a necklace by the Cartier house in 1969. Another great American star: Grace Kelly receives from Prince Rainier for her engagement a ring adorned with a diamond of 10,48 carats. No longer wishing to leave this ring, she will wear it in her latest film High Society before leaving the cinema for her career as Princess of Monaco. Cartier engagement rings have become a must have for young brides. The solitaire 1895 is the iconic model par excellence with its solitaire mounted on 4 claws and on a plate. The diamond collection also includes many more recent models such as the Amulette collection or the sumptuous Draperie necklace, adorned with bezel-set diamonds mounted on 18 rows of gold balls.

A story of feelings: Trinity

  • Created in 1924 by Louis Cartier, the famous 3 Trinity rings combine 3 golds: yellow, pink and gray symbolizing feelings of friendship, love and loyalty. Jean Cocteau makes this creation emblematic by wearing it and giving it to his companion, the writer Raymond Radiguet. Many personalities adopt this symbol of universal love like Gary Cooper, Grace Kelly or the Duke of Windsor. Today, this emblematic model offers many versions: tricolor or monocolour, with or without diamonds and is available in sets (necklaces, bracelets, earrings).

Creations iconic today

The particularly sleek and modern Love bracelet is nevertheless a creation that dates back to 1969. Designer Aldo Cipullo imagines this bracelet in the Cartier workshop in New York. The bracelet is engraved with screw patterns and it closes with a real gold screw, accompanied by a mini screwdriver. These "modern handcuffs of love" are a symbolic link between two beings. A true creative genius, Aldo Cipullo also imagined in 1971, the Clou bracelet from the Nail collection which also includes rings, earrings and necklaces. Today, renamed Juste un clou, the design is perfectly stylized wrapping the wrist and giving a glam-rock aspect to this collection. These two creations, Love and Juste un Clou, are perfectly unisex and symbolize love in a universal way.

A precious tribute to nature

After its many animal interpretations, the Cartier house is also interested in the plant kingdom. The orchid, which came from Asia in the 30th century, fascinates Cartier, who already interpreted it in the 2005s in the form of a brooch. But it was in 2016 that the jeweler dedicated his Caresse d'Orchidée Haute Joaillerie collection to this mysterious flower. Its shimmering colors are reinterpreted with amethysts and rubies that can be seen appearing through a lace of diamonds creating cascading earrings of flowers.In XNUMX, the Cartier house launched against the current trends its Cactus line which does not lack spice. These ephemeral flowers are adorned with luminous chrysoprases, emeralds and carnelians and metamorphose into golden ball rings protecting the fingers. Bracelets or necklaces bloom small white diamond flowers appearing as in the morning dew. A vibrant tribute to nature and symbolizing the preciousness of life!