- SIGNED JEWELERY -
BOUCHERON, THE JEWELER OF LIGHT
DIRECTED BY KYRA BRENZINGER, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
PThe first jeweler to settle in Place Vendôme in 1893, Boucheron has been able to reinvent itself in the image of futuristic creations, designed today by Claire Choisne. Let's go back through the fascinating history of this house to discover its iconic creations.
From the Palais-Royal to the universal exhibitions
Frédéric Boucheron, passionate about Parisian jewelry and architecture, first settled in 1858 in the Valois gallery at the Palais-Royal in Paris. His parents, clothiers, taught him the beauty of fabrics and the quality of French know-how. He therefore opened his own workshop and quickly won a gold medal at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1867. He repeated it in 1889, at the Universal Exhibition in Paris, and launched his first Question mark necklace, which made it possible to create a necklace enveloping the neck without a clasp. Today, this iconic necklace is regularly reinterpreted in the form of ivy or feathers, arranged like an open boa. Frédéric Boucheron paid particular attention to the comfort and fluidity of the jewels in homage to his parents' profession of clothier. Its gold necklaces, scarves or belt jewelry are particularly known for their elegance to wear.
From Place Vendôme to internationalization
In 1893, Frédéric Boucheron chose No. 26 on Place Vendôme in Paris for its exposure to the sun and the quality of the light that radiated on the stones and its ornaments. In this mansion also lived the famous Countess of Castiglione. Mistress of Napoleon III and famous for her beauty, she adorns herself with the precious jewels of Boucheron. Today, in the mansion entirely taken over by Boucheron and renovated in 2018, it is possible to discover the secret red lacquer cabinet of the Countess of Castiglione. Many personalities such as Belle Otéro, George Sand or Marcel Proust have also called on the jeweler to dazzle the guests in sumptuous evenings. Faced with success, Frédéric Boucheron opened his first boutique in Moscow in 1897 and counted the Empress Alexandra Feodorovna among his loyal customers. Boucheron also opened in 1903 a boutique in London and an office in New York. His sets and brooches make him famous, not to mention men's accessories such as cufflinks or tie pins.
The Art Deco period and the Maharaja of Patiala
His son Louis Boucheron succeeded the head of the company on the death of his father in 1902 and continued to develop the creative force of the house. In 1925, the International Exhibition of Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris laid all the stylistic foundations of Art Deco. The Boucheron house wins the Grand Prix and develops jewelry with geometric and refined lines. The famous minaudières are also inventive accessories allowing elegant women to put on make-up during chic evenings. In 1926, Louis Boucheron went to India to present his collections to the Maharajahs. In his turn, in 1928, the Maharajah of Patiala, escorted by his many servants, came with 6 boxes of precious stones to have adornments made by the Boucheron house. This is the first time that the house has received an order of such magnitude, resulting in 149 exceptional pieces. The current Creative Director, Claire Choisne has reinterpreted this unique story with talent by staging the Jodhpur Blue High Jewelry collection, notably using marble and sapphires in homage to the blue city of Rajasthan.
The bestiary and its Serpent Bohème collection
As early as 1888, on his return from an exotic trip, Frédéric Boucheron chose the snake to create a necklace for his wife Gabrielle. However, it was not until 1968 that the Serpent Bohème collection was born. This iconic collection is regularly reinterpreted, ranging from a very lively snake like with the Trouble collection to very stylized pieces such as you & me Serpent Bohème rings with the gold scales of the precious reptile. Many accomplices enrich the collection of the fantastic bestiary of the Boucheron house like the friendly Hans the Hedgehog, the wise Tortoise or the twirling ladybug. These pieces are particularly sought after today with the return of very trendy brooches and bestiary.
Jewelery know-how and the Quatre collection
Created in 2004, the Quatre collection has become a big best seller of the house. Originally, the ring consisted of four different rings highlighting the know-how of the house: the grosgrain reminiscent of silk fabric, the diamond tips evoking precious stones, the very emblematic gadroon motif of Boucheron and the smooth ring, sometimes embellished with diamonds. Since then, all combinations are possible and the rings are welded together by associating new colors such as pink gold or chocolate. Perfectly mixed, this collection becomes a symbol of the new unions of today.
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