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Ethical jewelry: a new demand from consumers' actors

Ethical jewelry: a new demand from consumers' actors

The subject of the environment is becoming a concern for many consumers and in different fields, even in jewelry. Let's meet the jewelers-creators of 58 Facettes who chose this approach in the initial creation of their concept and to meet the demand of a new clientele.

Mademoiselle AD : recycled gold and a commitment to miners in Tanzania

Mademoiselle AD on the fact 58 Facettes
Based in Hyères since 2005, Anne Daury has always linked jewelry to ethical values. “For me it's not a fad, it's a deep conviction to leave a better world for our children,” she explains. From the creation of her brand, she wanted to use 100% recycled gold, either bought directly from individuals in her shop, or from Ecogold certified suppliers.
“At the time, there was no real traceability for Fairmined gold from Latin America. So, I preferred to take certified French refiners offering eco-responsible recycled gold. In addition in my approach, I also favor short circuits rather than bringing gold from the end of the world with the multiplication of carbon emissions ”. Thanks to its ethical approach, the brand Mademoiselle AD was chosen by the Notre Dame Foundation to create a Notre-Dame AD line, contributing to the restoration of the cathedral.
Notre-Dame necklace - Mademoiselle AD on the fact 58 Facettes
Chronos earring - Mademoiselle AD on the fact 58 Facettes
His brand new intergenerational Chronos collection, created in collaboration with his daughter Eloïse, is made entirely by hand, reminiscent of the hands of his grandfather's pocket watch. In her shop, Anne Daury has a small tailor-made workshop, but she also works with different workshops, depending on their specialties, which are certified Living Heritage Company or Jewelery of France.
A graduate of the GIA (Gemmological Institute of America), Anne Daury chooses the origin of her stones with expertise. “I am personally involved in the GIA as a member of the Alumni Association to develop the education of independent miners in Tanzania and especially for women's groups”. Moreover, his ForEverGold collection is set with this Tanzanite stone that is found only in this African country with this magical blue-violet shine reminiscent of the starry skies of our precious land.

Manal Paris: Ethical materials RJC

Manal Paris on 58 Facettes
From the launch of her brand in 2018, designer Manal Radouane wanted to choose suppliers in France to meet an ethical requirement. “I only work with French traders who guarantee the traceability of the stones and some have existed on the market for several generations. These traders are often in direct contact with mines for colored stones and for diamonds, they only use stones that meet the Kimberley Process, a certification system for rough diamonds, created in 2000 which aims to avoid conflict diamonds ”.
The creations of Manal Paris feature very fine quality stones such as emeralds from Colombia on the Anjar solitaire or pink tourmaline from Mozambique, set on the Ispahane ring. “I have developed a large collection for weddings, notably with pastel-coloured solitaires on rose gold that go very well with the color of the skin”. On the manufacturing side, Manal Radouane uses workshops using recycled gold and labeled RJC (Responsible Jewelery Council), an international organization implementing responsible practices in terms of ethics, the environment and working conditions.
Solitaire Anjar - Manal Paris on 58 Facettes
Café de Paris ring - Manal Paris on 58 Facettes
In homage to its Moroccan origins, its creations bear enchanting names such as Daera, which means “round” in Arabic and recalls Art Deco-inspired architecture. “In Morocco, we have several buildings that date from the 30s and that combine Art Deco with more rounded details such as flower petals, represented on the Daera necklace”. Her mechanical engineering studies in France finally led her to the resistance of materials, which she finally preferred to apply to jewelry. For example, his Café de Paris ring features a round diamond almost in levitation, surrounded by baguette-cut diamonds and a particularly technical and sophisticated milgrain pavé setting.
Still in its logic of traceability, diamonds are certified from 0,30 carats by international laboratories (GIA or HRD) and for colored stones by the French Gemmology Laboratory. With all these guarantees, her jewelry is made to last a lifetime, born of a beautiful marriage for example!

Emylienne: the upcycling of forgotten jewelry

Emylienne joaillerie on 58 Facettes
Thanks to her 15 years of experience within the Cartier house as Haute Joaillerie project manager, Audrey Barbier knows immediately how to recognize exceptionally crafted jewelry. "I am very appreciative of the know-how of the craftsmen, the precision of their gestures and their patience, working long hours behind their workbench." Since 2017, she has embarked on a particularly original concept: giving a second life to old jewelry that she poetically calls forgotten jewelry. “I sometimes saw a few old pieces that we melted down quite simply to recover the gold or the stones… So, I wanted to pay homage to these craftsmen of the time by transforming old jewelry to make more jewelry. in the mood of time ".
Thus, fine brooches become bracelets, mounted on a simple cord, or patterns of hat pins adorn a ring. For the name of her brand Emylienne, she wanted to pay tribute to her grandmother who particularly loved jewelry. "She wore them on a daily basis and through my approach, I want to give meaning to the value of transmission of a jewel by respecting it while making it evolve through the different generations".
Cherry ring - Emylienne joaillerie on 58 Facettes
Bracelet Petite Marseillaise - Emylienne joaillerie on 58 Facettes
It can thus give a facelift to a necklace of family pearls which is transformed into creoles with very current mobile pearls. She likes to change the worn like this heavy chocker jade necklace which becomes a long, more aerial necklace or an old cut diamond, mounted on a tie pick, which has become a center stone for a ring.
She favors jewelry from the late 19th century to the early 20th century that she finds in various auction rooms or even on specialized sites. “Of course I do not touch signed jewelry which must remain intact to keep their value! On the other hand, I also work with auctioneers who call on me to offer jewelry transformations to their clients. The objective is to highlight a part of the jewel and not to erase it ”. A poetic way of conceiving upcycling in a jewelry version.

 

Article written by Kyra Brenzinger - Editor-in-chief.

Photo 1: Anne Daury (Mademoiselle AD) with his daughters
Photo 2: Notre-Dame necklace - Mademoiselle AD
Photo 3: Chronos earrings - Mademoiselle AD
Photo 4: Manal Radouane (Manal Paris)
Photo 5: Solitaire Anjar - Manal Paris
Photo 6: Café de Paris ring - Manal Paris
Photo 7: Audrey Barbier (Emylienne Jewelry)
Photo 8: Cherry ring - Emylienne Joaillerie
Photo 9: Bracelet Petite Marseillaise - Emylienne Joaillerie

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